1/2" Engineered Ipe 4-3/4" Wide
Stocking Status: In-Stock
Warranty:
30-Year
1/2" Engineered Ipe 4-3/4" Wide

Details

Hardwood Collection Exotic Elegance
Coverage 27.9Coverage
Coverage describes the amount of sq. ft.  of wood comes in a carton. Cartons cannot be broken so the amount you’ll purchase will likely be more than the size of your room.  Keep in mind, a waste factor of 10% should always be added to the actual square footage of the total project.
Dimensions 1/2 in x 4-3/4 in x RandomThickness/Length
The thicker a wood floor is, the higher its insulation value and the greater its stability. More material is required, therefore the price is typically higher. Features such as wide planks and random length planks (or both features combined) provide additional value and often produce a more luxurious appearance.

9/16 in x 5 in x 72 in (Fusix Pro)
9/16" in thickness combine with the high density core for great insulation value. The wide, long boards significantly reduce overall installation time while also reducing the amount of potential fault points where planks meet.

1/2 in x 5-5/8 in x 72-1/2 in (Brushed Artisan)
1/2" in overall plank thickness with extra wide and long planks. Density of solid strand woven bamboo is greater than wood and provides as much stability/insulation value as a thicker wood floor. 
Species Ipe (Brazilian Walnut)
Color Tone Dark
Color Variation High
Construction Engineered Plywood
Wear Layer Thickness 2mm
Edge Eased EdgeEased Edges
Eased edges are similar to beveled edges with a less distinct 'v' shaped groove that tapers off where the planks meet. Eased edges can be great for concealing minor height fluctuations from plank to plank caused by imperfections in the subfloor.
Installation Method Float, Glue, Staple/NailNail/Staple
Nail down or Staple installations occur over wood subfloors, OSB, and sometimes over existing linoleum or vinyl floors (if less than ⅛” in thickness and glued fully to subfloor). Nail/staple installations can not be performed over other wood floors, floating floors, tile floors or particle board subfloors.

Float
A floating installation is when a floor is not attached directly to the subfloor using nails, staples or glue. The floor is installed over a layer of flooring underlayment, hence the name, "floating floor". Floating floors can be installed over some floors that are adhered directly to the subfloor, but not other floating floors.

Float, Nail, Staple, Glue
This floor can either be glued, nailed, stapled or floated over various types of subfloors (even some existing floors). Its construction allows for a series of installation options offering a great solution for when you want to have the same floor in different rooms with different subfloor types.
Finish 7-Layer UV Cured Klumpp Finish with Aluminum OxideUV Cured Polyurethane With Aluminum Oxide 
Westhollow uses only the highest quality polyurethane with aluminum oxide additive. Aluminum oxide is the second hardest substance known to man and largely responsible for the scratch resistance of the floor. UV curing is a process in which UV rays significantly harden the overall finish.

UV Cured Klumpp Finish With Aluminum Oxide
Klumpp brand finish is a water based, solvent free system and considered more eco-friendly than oil based finishes. An aluminum oxide additive adds excellent scratch resistance while the UV curing process hardens the protective barrier. 
Surface SmoothSmooth
A smooth surface floor is exactly how it's described. You should be able to run your hand across the top of the plank and not feel any textures or imperfections.
Janka Rating 3680Janka Rating
Wood hardness is rated by the Janka Hardness Scale, and typically the softer the wood, the more susceptible it is to denting or scratching. Janka ratings are determined by the amount of pressure it takes to drive a steel ball into the surface of a wood. The more pressure it requires, the higher a wood’s rating.
Warranty 30-Year55 Year Residential Warranty
For a period of 55 years and provided our maintenance guidelines are followed, we will guarantee that our finish won’t peel off or wear through to the wood’s surface.

25 Year Residential / 3 Year Light Commercial
When Westhollow maintenance guidelines are followed, we guarantee our floor finish for will not wear through or peel off in residential applications for a period of 25 years. For installations in areas like doctor's offices, hair salons and other light commercial applications, Westhollow guarantees the finish for 3 years.

35-Year Residential / 5 Year Light Commercial
When Westhollow maintenance guidelines are followed, we guarantee our floor finish for will not wear through or peel off in residential applications for a period of 35 years. For installations in areas like doctor's offices, hair salons and other light commercial applications, Westhollow guarantees the finish for 5 years.

This Ipe, or Brazilian Walnut, flooring is offered in an engineered Plywood core construction, with the traditional tongue and groove joint. This allows for every installation method and installation either on or below grade. Whether floating over a concrete subfloor, or nailing down to plywood, Ipe’s Janka rating of 3680 and the 7 layers of polyurethane/aluminum oxide finish ensure this flooring will stand the test of time. The durability of the high hardness rating and scratch resistant coating make this flooring a great choice for high traffic areas, and we recommend this floor for almost every area in the home except for bathrooms and laundry areas. The heightened stability of the plywood core also make this flooring a good option for installation over radiant heat. Order your free sample today!

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Care & Maintenance

Do not use a wet spray micro fiber mop, or wet swiffers. Never use wax, polish, abrasive cleaners or scouring agents as they may dull or distort the finish.

For normal everyday cleaning use a broom or a DRY swiffer to sweep up any debris. For hard to clean spots use a lightly damp cloth or mop to clean or you can use a hard surface spray cleaner, just spray a light mist on the floor and then mop with a DRY micro fiber mop. Avoid using excessive moisture. Too much moisture can cause warping, or buckling which is not covered under warranty. All spills should be cleaned up immediately. Use protective pads under furniture. USE CAUTION: Planks are slippery when wet.

It;?s a good idea to save a few panels in case of accidental damage. Planks can be replaced or repaired by flooring professional.



ENGINEERED FLOORING INSTALLATON GUIDELINES
Engineered Hardwood Installation Guidelines (PDF)

Jump To: Float In Installation, Staple Down Installation, Glue Down Installation

Important / Read First

Please read and review installation instructions completely before proceeding with the actual installation.

Owner / Installer responsibility

  • The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality.
  • This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation.
  • Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installation.
  • Use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with glaring defects, whatever the cause.
  • If material is not acceptable contact your flooring dealer prior to installation.
  • Before the installation of any flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of subfloor involved is acceptable; ensuring that it meets or exceeds all the requirements stipulated in the installation instructions that follow.
  • The manufacturer declines responsibility for job failure resulting form inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors, job site environmental deficiencies or improper care & maintenance.
  • The use of stain, filler or putty for the correction of defects during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
  • When your flooring is ordered, a 5-10% waste factor, depending on layout, must be added to the actual square footage amount needed. (Diagonal installations may require more.)

Job Site Inspection

  • In new construction, flooring is to be the last product installed.
  • All work involving water or moisture (plumbing, acoustical ceilings, drywall taping, etc.) must be completed prior to flooring being installed.
  • The flooring can not be delivered until the building has been closed in and cement work, plastering, painting and other materials are completely dry. Concrete and plaster should be cured at least 60 to 90 days.
  • Check basements and under floor crawl spaces to be sure they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage caused by moisture.
  • Flooring should be at the job site 24 hours prior to installation. Cartons should be placed in the installation area. DO NOT open until ready to install.
  • The installation site should have consistent room temperature of 60° - 75° F and a constant relative humidity level of 35 – 55% for a minimum of 5 days prior to installation of any flooring product.

Note: The relative humidity of any room can be checked with a hygrometer.
Note on bowing: The boards may be slightly concave or convex when removed from the carton. Once they are properly installed they will lay flat.


FLOAT-IN INSTALLATION GUIDE

UNDERLAYMENT LAYER

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat, install the foam/rubber underlayment as specified by the underlayment manufacturer. Tape all seams completely as specified by underlayment manufacturer.

POSITION THE FIRST ROW

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you.

Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board.

Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete. You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board. Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile.

SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT ROWS

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4th or 5th row. Maintaining this offset is very important where rows are short, such as across the width of a narrow hallway.

Glue the short end and long side grooves and position the next board, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block. Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

THE LAST ROW

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

INSTALLATION THROUGH DOORWAYS AND BETWEEN ROOMS

Flooring may run continuously between rooms as long as the doorway/passageway is no less than 42” in width. If the doorway/passageway is less than 42” in width, a t-molding must be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

PIPES, FLOOR VENTS AND OTHER OBJECTS

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

MOLDING AND FLOOR VENTS

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.

MAINTENANCE

Follow the floor care guide and warranty information for proper care, protection and maintenance of your floor.


STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

UNDERLAYMENT LAYER

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat, install the red rosin paper or 15 lb. asphalt saturated felt (roofing felt). Tape all seams completely with underlayment seam tape.

POSITION THE FIRST ROW

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you.

Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board. Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete. You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board.

Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile.

Carefully top nail the first row of boards to the subfloor ONLY using 6d finish nails where the boards meet the wall (This will be on three sides of the first and last rows of the installation and on the two ends for all other rows). Place the nails as close to the edge of the boards as possible so they will be covered by the transition and/or wall molding. If this can not be done, set the nails with a nail punch and fill holes with wood filler. Finish nails should be placed at 8” intervals along the wall.

Now side nail with the flooring stapler through the tongues of the first row at 8” intervals and 2-3” from the end of each board.

SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT ROWS

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4th or 5th row.

Glue the short end groove of the next board and place in position, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block. Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

Now side nail with the flooring stapler through the tongues of the boards at 8” intervals and 2-3” from the end of each board.

THE LAST ROW

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

Top nail the last row with finish nails against the wall as was done with the first row.

INSTALLATION THROUGH DOORWAYS AND BETWEEN ROOMS

Flooring may run continuously between rooms, or, a t-molding may be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

PIPES, FLOOR VENTS AND OTHER OBJECTS

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

MOLDING AND FLOOR VENTS

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.

MAINTENANCE

Follow the floor care guide and warranty information for proper care, protection and maintenance of your floor.


GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat you may proceed with the installation.

POSITION THE FIRST ROW

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you. Always dry fit the first row before you begin gluing the boards down.

Once the first row has been cut and fit, remove the flooring and set it aside. Snap a chalk line ½” out from the starting wall, starting from the edge of the chalk line, apply an even layer of adhesive as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. Only spread adhesive the width and length of the one row that was dry fit.

A NOTE ON ADHESIVE:

Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions for use in this application. Wear rubber gloves and proceed carefully during adhesive application. Cured mastic is very hard to remove from the flooring as well as the tools. DO NOT allow any spilled or excess adhesive to remain anywhere but between the boards and the subfloor at any time during the installation. Clean up spills immediately as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. The flooring manufacturer will not be responsible in any way for adhesive that is not removed from the flooring immediately. Any damage to the flooring caused by the adhesive allowing to cure on the surface will be the sole responsibility of the installation mechanic.

Re-install the pre-cut boards from the dry fit as follows. Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board. Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete. You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board.

Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile. For best results, allow the adhesive on the subfloor and the tongue & groove glue to dry before continuing with the rest of the installation.

SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT ROWS

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4th or 5th row.

Trowel adhesive onto the subfloor as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, Glue the short end groove of the next board and place in position, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block.

Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

THE LAST ROW

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

Top nail the last row with finish nails against the wall as was done with the first row.

INSTALLATION THROUGH DOORWAYS AND BETWEEN ROOMS

Flooring may run continuously between rooms, or, a t-molding may be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

PIPES, FLOOR VENTS AND OTHER OBJECTS

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

MOLDING AND FLOOR VENTS

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.
Q: What is an engineered hardwood floor?
Engineered wood is produced with three to five layers of hardwood. Each layer is stacked in a cross-grain configuration and bonded together under heat and pressure. As a result, engineered wood flooring is less likely to be affected by changes in humidity and can be installed at all levels of the home.

Q. How do I acclimate my engineered hardwood floor?
Let the engineered hardwood flooring acclimate for 5-7 days, in a controlled climate, with boxes opened and laid flat in the room where the flooring is to be installed. If you are in an area with high humidity, you may need to install some humidity controls like a humidifier or dehumidifier.

Q: What are the different types of installation techniques for engineered hardwood floor?

A: Nail Down - Nails are used to fasten the engineered hardwood floor to the subfloor.

Glue down – A full trowel adhesive is used for this technique. Troweling the adhesive in small sections, the engineered hardwood flooring is installed directly on top of the adhesive before it has a chance to cure.

Floating – The Floating method (not securing to the subfloor) offers a fast, convenient, and cost efficient way to install an engineered hardwood floor. The floating method is also known to produce a very stable floor due to the fact that it is not secured to the subfloor.
(*See Westhollow Installation methods for more info on any of these installation techniques.))

Q: Can I install engineered hardwood floor in the bathroom?
A: NO. We do not recommend installing engineered hardwood floors in the bathroom because of concerns with high moisture content.

Q: Can I install my engineered hardwood floor below grade (lower than the ground line) in my basement?
Yes. By using the floating installation method using a tongue and groove glue as well as a 6mm polyurethane sheeting and an underlayment material

Q. Do I need a moisture barrier for an above grade flooring installation?
A: Only if there is a crawl space less than 1.5 feet below the subfloor. It is recommended that a vapor barrier of 6mm polyurethane sheeting be placed between the engineered hardwood flooring and the subfloor to prevent any moisture from getting to the floor. If nailing the floor we recommend using a of 15-pound felt paper that should be placed between the engineered hardwood flooring and the wood subfloor.

Q: Can I install engineered hardwood floor over a radiant heat subfloor?
A: Yes. See Installation Methods for Engineered Hardwood Floors for specific instructions.

Q. What is the Janka Hardenss rating scale?
A: The Janka Hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. It measures the force required to embed an 11.28 mm (0.444 in) steel ball into wood to half the ball's diameter. This method leaves an indentation. A common use of Janka hardness ratings is to determine whether a species is suitable for use as flooring.

Q. When ordering engineered hardwood floor, how much extra is needed to allow for waste?
A: Add 10 percent for waste and cuts. It is also a good idea to have a box or carton of flooring leftover for any issues or remodeling that may occur in the future.

Q. How long will it take to install my engineered hardwood floor?
A: Installation crews can probably install around 300-500 square feet of pre-finished nail-down or glue-down engineered hardwood flooring per day.

Q. Can I install the engineered hardwood floor myself?
A: With the right tools and by following the installation guidelines you can install an engineered hardwood floor, but there are some tricky aspects to it, and unless you’re experienced and accustomed to working with your hands, you may be better off seeking professional assistance.

Q: Why is it important to avoid installing all the planks from one box and then moving to the next one?
A: Different boxes of the same engineered hardwood floor can vary noticeably in color and grain, so mixing the pieces from different boxes will ensure that shade variations look random after installation. Also, before starting, take time to check moisture content in both the actual flooring and the subflooring. Strictly follow manufacturer’s recommendations for correct moisture content at installation.

Q. What is a molding/molding piece?
A: The Quarter Round molding is used to hide the expansion gap left around walls during installation.

The T-molding is used as a threshold in doorways or as a transition strip where the hardwood flooring meets floor or carpet of similar height. T moldings can also be used to change the direction in which the floor is laid.

The Reducer molding is used as a transition from the height of the sub-floor to the height of the hardwood floor.

The Stairnose molding is used to cover the front edge of a stair tread or step. If used on a stair, flooring is installed behind the Stairnose to cover the horizontal part (the tread) of the stair.

The Stair Tread molding is a one-piece molding used to entirely cover the structural stair tread.
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